Twokoi too cool

By Jake de Paul on September 16, 2006

From the moment you walk into Twokoi Japanese Cuisine, you know you're in for a treat. The restaurant is housed in the historic Calton Building in downtown Tacoma, within sight distance of excited kids running up and down South Jefferson hoping they might eventually be seated in the Spaghetti Factory trolley. A bamboo smart bomb must have exploded inside covering floors, key walls and the bar back with the polished wood. Open concept, large sushi bar, tall grass decorated support beams, plasma screens, jazz swirling about - an ocean apart from the tatami mats and rice paper walls of more traditional Japanese restaurants. The place just buzzes with cosmopolitan energy.

This weekend's "soft opening" featuring a 60 percent tasting of what Twokoi will eventually offer.  Because they are still fine tuning their menu and operations yakisoba, teriyaki, katsu and other entrees are discounted to $10 and appetizers $5.  Sushi and sashimi prices are in line with other local Japanese restaurants.

Executive Chef Young "Jackie" Koh, formerly of Fujiya down the street, pushes the envelope of contemporary Japanese cuisine with a few items he developed from his French studies - tuna and salmon carpaccio, both with white onion in citrus sauce, and an "Amazing Crunch Spicy Tuna" tower of spicy tuna, avocado, asparagus, onion layered with tempura flake (stupendous).
With a promised 40 sakes, drink specials featuring sake, and weekend hours extending to 2 a.m. my butt will hit Twokoi's bamboo often.