Long gone are the days when you could sidle up to the bar and order a glass of merlot and feel halfway decent about yourself. Even if it's a nice merlot, such as a Montes Alpha from Chile, you're bound to feel like a heel thanks to Alexander Payne and his wine snobs in ''Sideways." In the ballyhooed film, Paul Giamatti's character nearly suffers a meltdown when told he'd be drinking the lowly merlot. Recently, weekly Volcano scribe Suzy Stump admitted to feeling sheepish about ordering it, as though she had asked to gulp a quart of Bartles & Jaymes' Orange Passion wine cooler (actually her taste in spirits). Thankfully, Vin Grotto Café and Wine Bar feels our Stump's pain. 
Owner Kris Blondin offers a spectacular 2002 Swanson Merlot, which Wine Spectator, or Wine Dictator as Blondin calls it, graced it with a 90-point rating.  The wine rests on Blondin's select list, and rests in your glass with concentrated but not jammy flavors of spice, wild berry and currant â€" very earthy.  This Napa Valley baby sells for $15 a big pour. Since Vin Grotto has anchored Tacoma's 1902 Rowland Building since Fall of 2003, Blondin and crew have always offered big pours.  The 2002 Swanson Merlot and Vin Grotto's spicy tuna wrap with grilled red peppers, red onion and capers were instant friends.
Oh, one more thing.  Vin Grotto hosts a "Hurray The Kids Are Back To School" wine tasting during Third Thursday Art Walk Sept. 21, 5-8 p.m.  Jazz pianist Al Gord will be in the house.  It's a steal at $5 per person. â€" Jake de Paul