STEPH DEROSA: SLOW BURN >>>
The obvious spicy choice off the Doyle’s Public House menu today was Spicy Popcorn. Since I felt like popcorn wouldn’t quite cut it on my lunchtime food group pyramid, I ordered the second most obvious choice: Jerk Chicken Wings. Contrary to what I initially believed, these wings are not named after Pappi Swarner. “Jerk†happens to be a Jamaican dry rub, sometimes having an element of spicy-hotness. You know, typical English pub food, right?
I was warned that Doyle’s Jerk Chicken Wings were initially hot, but ultimately cooled down as they were covered in jerk sauce. As they were set beneath my nose, the steam from those meaty wings reached up and slightly tickled my nose hairs. This was a good sign. Well after the first wing, the heat lingered within my mouth and right on down my throat. Even a sip of beer couldn’t calm this after burn. It was subtle, yet hearty. Doyle’s â€" your ability to Jamaican jerk up some chicken wings really surprised me. Who knew such a culturally diversified and Jamaican-aware English-style existed in Tacoma?
By the way, the delicately chili-powdered popcorn was the perfect combination of buttery spice, and paired wonderfully with my cold IPA beer. Did it burn my mouth? Not at all. But the kick it did have made a traditionally bland item into a damn fine snack food.
[Doyle’s Public House, 208 Saint Helens Ave., Tacoma, 253.272.7468]