MICHAEL SWAN: SPEAK LOUDLY AND ORDER PROVOLONE STICKS >>>

Like most people I know, I don’t go to Joeseppi’s Italian Ristorante seeking gastronomic epiphanies. I go for good food, OK wine, and fun atmosphere. If I walk out with a full belly, a slight buzz, and sides that ache from laughing through dinner, I’m happy. (Something about the ever-present scent of garlic makes me easy to please.)

Last Sunday afternoon, Joeseppi’s appeared to be just my speed: somewhat frenetic, very loud, and entirely fun. Server Joe M. was amazing â€" quick, funny and professional. Joe also made this statement: “I’ve eaten at many places, and our provolone sticks are by far the best.”

I can’t imagine a life lived without cheese sticks. If I had a dairy allergy, I’d probably just pop some Lactaid and suffer through the ill affects.

Cheese sticks are hard to screw up, but they’re also hard to make memorable. Joeseppi’s five provolone sticks ($7.99) have a great seasoning and were fried just light enough. Joe’s right. They are the best. â€" Michael Swan

[Joeseppi’s Italian Ristorante, 2207 N. Pearl St., Tacoma, 253.761.5555]