JAKE DE PAUL: STARTING YOUR DAY IN A HOTEL >>>

The Hotel Murano describes the breakfast it serves at its Bite restaurant as "traditional fare with an elegant twist." In practice, its breakfast â€" as well as lunch and dinner â€" finds a happy medium between the two aspirations â€" its food and décor are interesting and pleasing without being demanding.

The breakfast menu offers twists like a Northwest Benedict (cured salmon with poached eggs and a plugra hollandaise), gingerbread French toast (with crème fraiche), “b&g” (cheddar biscuits, thyme white gravy, softly scrambled eggs and sausage), pigs in a quilt (smokehouse bacon baked in a Belgian waffle), eggs Benedict Royal (with prosciutto di parma and plugra hollandaise â€" on the salty side but delicious) and a tofu scramble.

Of course, standards like buttermilk pancakes, Western omelet, oatmeal and steak and eggs are also available.

Of special note is the “Breakfast Club”: toasted ciabatta with fried egg, Oregon sharp cheddar, smokehouse bacon and black pepper aioli served with skillet browned potatoes. It's tasty.

Prices range from the $6 oatmeal to $17 for the 7-ounce New York strip and eggs. Most items fall into the $10 to $12 range, which might be $2 an entree more than locals are willing pay.

Service during my last three morning visits has been attentive and friendly.

This is comfort food with one eye on greatness â€" and it just might be one of the best breakfasts in Tacoma.

[Bite inside Hotel Murano, 6-11 a.m. Monday-Friday, 7-11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday, 1320 Broadway Plaza, Tacoma, 253.238.8000]