HELLO BEST OF TACOMA 2012! >>>

Tirami sù ("pick me up"), far from being an Italian dessert of ancient vintage, was actually invented at El Toula restaurant in Treviso, just north of Venice, in the '60s. It spread across the ocean like the Beatles, with such startling rapidity that by the '80s, it was de rigueur in every Italian restaurant in the South Sound.

Catch a slammin' version at Marrow Kitchen and Bar.

Last night Marrow bartender Greg Rodriguez (harp man with the Fucking Eagles) served me enough tiramisu to choke Augustus Gloop. Chef Kyle Wnuk's version ($6) is probably the best version of this Italian classic I have ever had. It had not the slightest hint of heaviness, although due to my huge intake during the evening I could only manage a few bites. His whipped-cream-consistency tiramisu is made of savoiardi (lady finger biscuits) dipped in strong coffee and rum, layered with a whipped mixture of that includes mascarpone and chocolate.

Sadly, it's not inked on the menu, but rather written with chalk on the specials board.

Keep an eye on the board.

[Marrow Kitchen and Bar, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday,  2717 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.267.5299]