Local Bite: New macaroni and cheese

By Ron Swarner on January 27, 2012

NEW RESTAURANT ALERT >>>

The first time I made macaroni and cheese, I followed the official CIA (Culinary Institute of America) recipe. It took me approximately four hours, utilized two French "Mother" sauces, cost about $10, and tasted mediocre. I won't be doing that again soon. These days I leave it up to the pros - like Steve Cobb.

Cobb, who has seen the world through a restaurant kitchen window while his wife, Katrina, served in the Army, has tweaked his macaroni and cheese recipe during a 25-year journey. After tasting the famous macaroni and cheese at S'mac in New York City, and making the final adjustment, the Cobbs say they felt confident enough to open their own joint - a month ago - at the corner of Martin Way and Dutterow Road in Lacey.

Mac N' More serves six variations of macaroni and cheese, with the option to create your own dish.

A three-cheese "secret" recipe serves as a base.

"I experimented for years to create a cheese sauce that doesn't crack or burn when reheated," says Cobb

The light creamy sauce works well on its own, but receives its crown with added toppings like pickled jalapeno, spinach, black olives, bacon and chicken. The Cobbs also offer creations of their own, such as the "Mudbug" with crayfish tails and green onions ($9.95) and the "Buffalo" with chicken strips smothered in buffalo sauce, green onions and blue cheese ($7.95). The tomato, green onion, black olive and spinach-packing "Garden" macaroni and cheese ($7.95) is a knockout.

Steve says he also perfected his pasta preparation, producing a firm elbow macaroni that holds the light sauce.

In truth, mac 'n' cheese experimentation will most likely fill any person's first three visits to Mac N' More. But a person's fourth visit might include the popular Meat Loaf Smash Burger. Sandwiches, cornflake-crusted fried chicken and good ol' meat loaf are also on the menu.

The portions will satisfy any appetite. After indulgence like the aforementioned, it's hard to imagine how an ice cream sandwich, apple pie or shake could be added - but the option exists.

The Cobbs offer takeout for families or the thousands packing Martin Way during rush hour.

The Cobbs also say a bulk mac 'n' cheese option is in the works.

I can't imagine how long it would take me to create mac 'n' cheese in bulk.

[Mac N' More, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9323 Martin Way, Lacey, 360.455.3290]