First Bite: Marrow's "Breaking Bread" brunch

By Adrienne Kuehl on February 18, 2013

NEW SUNDAY MORNING BREAKFAST OPTION IN TACOMA >>>

Shaking up Tacoma's weekend eats scene, Marrow debuted its "Breaking Bread" Sunday brunch yesterday, with a slew of nontraditional breakfast items from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and an inventive small plates menu from 2 p.m. to close.

A steady flow of sleepy-headed hipsters and Marrow devotees entered the doors when they opened, ready to experience the restaurant's first foray into breakfast. It was so popular, in fact, they sold out of food early.

Owners Jaime Kay and Jason Jones and chef/co-owner Kyle Wnuk prepared a menu that would surely awaken even the most tired palates and eradicate the unpleasant effects of too much fun the night before.

For a bit of hair of the dog, try a Saul cocktail ($7) with refreshing grapefruit juice, vodka, and a Libertine citrus-vanilla salt rim. Perhaps the Flynn ($7) is more your style, with a smoky bacon-infused bourbon and a hit of maple syrup.

Catching my eye was the colossal biscuit with duck and pork sausage gravy, hash browns and cheddar duck eggs ($12). "Colossal" was right - a giant mountain of a biscuit, with a delightfully crisp exterior, smothered in a skillfully seasoned gravy. The hash browns, with a perfectly crisp interior and light, fluffy cheddar duck eggs are worth the visit in themselves.

The challah French toast with maple syrup, raspberry syrup and cheddar duck eggs ($11) is a sublime way to feed your sweet tooth. With a griddled crust and bright raspberry syrup, this dish is not to be missed.

The afternoon small plates menu offers three menu choices for $16, including duck and pork or mushroom and vegetable dim sum dumplings, duck confit sliders and wild boar bacon tea sandwiches, to name a few.

Brunch at Marrow is anything but ordinary and the prices are spot-on. Although the staff and the kitchen were still figuring out the new menu, I'm convinced they'll quickly overcome the kinks of their maiden brunch voyage.

MARROW KITCHEN AND BAR, 4 P.M. TO MIDNIGHT TUESDAY-SATURDAY, 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M. SUNDAY, 21+, 2717 SIXTH AVE., TACOMA, 253.267.5299

Adrienne Kuehl's love of Tacoma and passions for the local food scene and supporting small businesses led her to create A Big Mouthful and Tacoma Foodie. Follow her on Twitter: @tacomafoodie

LINK: A review of Marrow's new lobster claw Benedict dish