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Soups to soothe your soul

‘Tis the season for a belly full of warm goodness

INFINITE SOUPS: Todd Deshazo serves up goodness. Photo credit: J.M. Simpson

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An old Campbell's commercial sums up the mythical restorative power of soup: A snowman drags his frozen self in from the cold to sit at the kitchen table. As he slurps a steaming bowl of chicken noodle soup, the snowman melts away, revealing a cute little boy with happy smile.

From on-hand ingredients thrown together to make mulligan stew, to the laborious crafting of house-made stock or gently pureed seafood bisque - everyone feels better with a warm, full belly of soup. It's been proven.

There's also no doubt that cold weather and gray days can be abrasive to more than the human body. That's why I recommend soothing your soul with these winter warmers.

There are those who swear drinking pho broth daily will keep you well year round. I want the whole thing. Choose from slabs of paper-thin brisket, sliced meatball, steak, prawns and tender chicken breast chunks at Vien Dong in Tacoma's International District (3801 S. Yakima Ave.). Being able to control exactly how much cilantro, basil, fresh mung bean, jalapeno, lime, chili peppers, fish sauce, hoisin and Sriracha goes in my soup feels like absolute power - which I definitely enjoy. The mass of noodles coiled at the bottom of a huge bowl is a serious carb fix. Vegans listen up: Pho V and V (5434 S Tacoma Way, Tacoma) offers meat-free (and MSG-free) Vietnamese noodle soup. 

If you're craving something a bit more Irish, start with a Guinness infused gravy, add veggies, potatoes, and braised beef and you've got one hearty thick Guinness stew from Paddy Coyne's Irish Pub (815 Pacific Ave., Tacoma). Use soda bread to wipe the bowl clean when you're done.

Low salt content beef broth with subtle brandy and sweet Vermouth make French onion soup light and zippy at Sumner's Windmill Bistro (16009 60th St. E., Sumner). Made fresh, onions retain a slight crunch and aren't cooked to oblivion. Large garlicky croutons take the place of bread and overlap under a cap of melted Swiss.

Mulligatawny Indian lentil soup at Gateway to India in Gig Harbor (6565 Kimball Dr.) is a creamy blend of curry, lemon and ginger. The smooth lentils alternate between mush and still-firm in this sticks-to-the-ribs, mildly spicy soup. Note: The soup also acts as a great place to dip warm garlic and onion naan bread.

Rich beyond belief, Stanley and Seafort's (115 E. 34th St., Tacoma) lobster bisque is prepared tableside. Raw lobster bits in a graceful, sloping bowl are slowly drowned in buttery, fragrant bisque by a server who knows just how much you'll soon be enjoying every spoonful. The decadent taste and silky texture are courtesy of liberal butter and heavy cream (and, of course, lobster). Focus on the flavors; you can go to the gym tomorrow.

No round up of soups and stews can be complete without mentioning Infinite Soups (445 Tacoma Ave. S.). Since opening in early 2007, loyal customers have been easily wooed by Infinite Soups' delectable offerings. Ladling up 15-20 soups daily, creative ingredient combinations keep the rotation fresh. Meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans all have options on any given day. No preservatives or unnecessary additives go into the making of soups at Infinite, which is no doubt one of the reasons people talk about them with a devotion and reverence typically reserved for things much loftier than matters involving a spoon.

Fall and winter specials at Infinite Soups like Viv's Autumn Sunshine (maple sausage, acorn squash) are another appeal, not to mention my personal fave, Mushroom Marsala.

If you're looking to get more hands-on, find quality vegetables and meats to make your (or cold and flu remedy) at local butcher shops and farmers markets. Literally located on a farm, The Meat Shop of Tacoma (13419 Vickery Ave. E., Tacoma) offers certified organic beef, pork and lamb pre-chopped into perfectly sized morsel bites for use in stews and soups.

Calendula Farms sells humanely raised, hormone and anti-biotic free goat, lamb and chicken at the Proctor Farmers Market through December. Ask for a recipe card and you too can make North African lamb stew like I recently did. Add herbs at the end of simmering and make soups a day or two ahead to allow flavors to fully develop before serving.

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