JW Restaurant
Where: 4107 Harborview Drive, Gig Harbor, 253.858.3529, jwgigharbor.com
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Monday
Cuisine: New American food: Sautéed clams, duck confit sliders, wild boar, uncomplicated salads. Steak, seafood, foul and even gluten-free pasta. House-made soups, breads and desserts.
Scene: Upscale feel and food at tavern prices. Unhurried dining experience for those 21 and older only. Seating for 30 people in cozy cottage environment.
Drinks: Impressive wine list, craft beers from 7 Seas Brewing, coffee
Prices: $5-$20
ANNOUNCER: Housed in Gig Harbor's historic Garden Clubhouse, JW Restaurant opened in mid-spring to patron praise and media attention - naturally focused on the restaurant's New American dishes with a twist. Managing Partner Jason Winniford and Chef Justin Goodfellow have kept value-pricing in mind at this dinner-only dining establishment. Joining Jason de Paul this week is food and lifestyle writer Jennifer Johnson. The pairing is natural, as the two have dined at JW both separately and together over the last few months. Jake de Paul is spending time with his family ... or something.
JENNIFER: When I visited in April, roasted half chicken mirrored fried chicken. Tender, juicy meat and crisp, seasoned skin grabbed attention. Accompanying peppered green beans retained modest snap (no over-cooking there), and hand-mashed red potatoes were nice and lumpy. Tarragon, the neglected child of the herb family, gave an elusive essence to excellent gravy (though in June I noted apple cider gravy instead). On the appetizer front, when the prawn starter was placed before me I sighed in dismay at what I saw: only four to an order for $10. At first bite I sighed again, though this time in deep satisfaction. I quickly quit caring about cost. Prawns in a delicate honey glaze were yielding without being mushy, resisted the tooth without being tough or rubbery and came topped with chunky almond dust.
JASON: Pancetta morsels fried crisp in duck fat? That's like steak cooked in bacon drippings. Sliced boiled egg? Who says no to that? Tossed sparingly in blue cheese dressing, I found the spinach salad to be less about greens (though there were plenty) and more about proteins. Surprisingly, a 7 Seas Porter matched up well. In the duck confit sliders, the duck resembled pulled pork. Lush bird was complemented by smoky-sweet, dark orange aïoli and held between toasted, house-made French bread slices.
JENNIFER: Last weekend I sat in the tiny waiting area at JW while the table was readied for Jason and me. As one couple that popped in learned the hard way, weekend reservations are a must. Along with Chef Goodfellow, Winniford has the good habit of making personal table visits throughout both the micro-dining room and the wine bar. On this last visit, server Cody handled things perfectly when informed that I don't drink alcohol; whisking away the complimentary wine all dining guests are greeted with and returning with sparkling apple cider.
JASON: In JW's wild boar bourguignonne, cooking boar in red wine lent the meat a purplish hue and an alluring flavor - it hit your tongue before the raw earthiness that meats like boar, elk, rabbit and buffalo carry overrode it. A seared polenta cake played the role of starch alongside carrots. The bourguignonne is an example of what's essentially pot roast turned fine cuisine.
JENNIFER: Sporadically I stopped mid-conversation, totally wowed by what I was eating. A stone-ground mustard reduction graced the flat iron steak. I was delighted by the contrast in mustard acidity and meaty richness. The steak was cooked exactly as ordered and didn't put up a fight when shown the knife. Crimini mushrooms provided flavor pops. Steak juice ran freely, staining red potato mash. The men of JW have certainly mastered the game; service was shockingly fast. Possibly slow it down a tad, if only to let veggies cook?
JASON: That's truly something you never want to complain about, but I agree. I didn't feel rushed, though; dinner was still almost a two-hour affair. Orange zest crème brûlée was nicely done. The solid sugar top cracked like ice on a lake at the tap of my spoon, revealing a decadent dessert that was everything I wanted it to be.
JENNIFER: Rarely do I feel like I'm being doted on when dining out. JW delivered this and more on every level. This was a top-notch dining experience.
Comments for "Doted on" (14)
Weekly Volcano is not responsible for the content of these comments. Weekly Volcano reserves the right to remove comments at their discretion.
GH Eater said on Jun. 28, 2011 at 1:14pm
Our last meal at JW was almost perfect -- the chicken was a little dry, though. We mentioned that to the chef during one of his frequent rounds and the dish was "comped" with his apology.
Otherwise a fantastic meal.
Cheryl G said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 3:22pm
A very well written review. I always enjoy reading anything by the talented Jennifer Johnson.
Mike R said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 3:50pm
Nice, cleverly written review! Jake better watch out or Jennifer may become a permanent replacement. Can you say Wally Pipp? Or better yet, maybe Jennifer will take me along next time - I'd be more than happy to drink the complimentary wine that she turned down. :)
Levi said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 3:54pm
I always enjoy reading the great descriptive writing like, "Tarragon, the neglected child of the herb family", "raw earthiness", and "steak juice ran freely, staining red potato mash". It gives me a true sense of a culinary experience and not just a boring report. Keep doing great work.
Tim Norris said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 4:09pm
The JW review was nice. It makes me want the dining experience that Jason and Jennifer had. Kudos!
Chris V said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 4:37pm
Another great piece of work by Jennifer Johnson!
Brandon E said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 5:01pm
Sounds delicious...never been, but want to now. It's refreshing to read reviews that are not pompous or overly arrogant. Nice work JJ and JD...!!
Richard Nixon said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 5:03pm
Jennifer and Jason is every bit as good as Jake and Jason and even better, there is no danger of headlocks or noogies being doled out in a fine dining establishment. Nice writing Jennifer!
J May said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 5:07pm
Oh my gosh I just ate and I'm already hungry again reading this!
Janelle Morgan said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 5:27pm
What a descriptive account of this dining experience! Makes me want some of the same, right now! Jennifer brings a nice different perspective - the woman's viewpoint. Thoroughtly enjoyed this review!
Annie C said on Jun. 29, 2011 at 10:32pm
Jennifer's descriptions are mouthwatering! I could almost taste the tarragon gravy, and feel the steak melting in my mouth! And Jason's detail on the spinach salad and roasted boar was great too
StationAloha said on Jun. 30, 2011 at 1:31am
Excellent example of why I follow Lady JJs writing!
I enjoy the honesty in Jake and Jason's feedback, but Ms J takes it to a higher sensory level. I can empathize with her experience and actually mentally picture myself there eating with her (or my close friends) since that's exactly how it feels like she's sharing with me in her writing.
From Lady JJs Volcano articles, I've actually started a list of places to make sure to visit when I'm looking for different types of food and atmospheres (& the pitfalls to avoid too). I've already made a family reservation mid-July for JWs & already know exactly what I'm having! =)
Best Regards from a true blue 'Foodie'. Keep up the great writing!!
Doug said on Jun. 30, 2011 at 7:58pm
Reads like a romance. Jenny Fab. You are literary/culinary AMBROSIA.
mark ritchey said on Jul. 28, 2011 at 9:57pm
just a note to Jason. I really don't think you meant to write "foul and gluten free pasta." I hope you can retrace this and make a correction.
Leave A Comment
Respond on Your Blog
Create an Account
or
Login
If you have a Weekly Volcano Account you can not only post comments, but you can also respond to articles in your own Weekly Volcano Blog. It's just another way to make your voice heard.