ANNOUNCER: The tiny retail strip at Regents Boulevard and Contra Costa Avenue in Fircrest has two dining options: old-school Italian delicatessen Viafore‘s and a casual café that has gone by a few names over the years. Remember Spring Lake Cafe, Poppy Seed Cafe or Alia's Sidewalk Café? All three occupied the space; Spring Lake first. Despite changes in ownership, the American menu of sandwiches, salads, soups, desserts, omelets and scrambles - not to mention the décor - remains about the same. The original owners recently reclaimed the business and renamed it Spring Lake Café. Hearing Chef Scott Clement had returned, the boys went to see if all the fuss they've been hearing is warranted.

JASON: On our fist visit since Chef Scott's return, I have to admit I was skeptical. We'd had poor experiences previously and I'm really not one to seek out a crappy time. It looked the same, certainly, but upon arrival a smiling young woman seated us at a half-booth table with an easy view of the room and the street outside. We received the same polite, quick treatment and attentive service on subsequent visits. So far so good.

JAKE: On a recent morning visit the air was laced with the scent of bacon and the sweetness of pancakes or French toast. Coffee was strong and aromatic. Our server was anxious to please and returned quickly for our order. Plates of steaming food arrived within a reasonable amount of time, given the full house. Everyone raves about the chicken-fried steak; we now know why. Stretching across the whole plate, two massive slabs of ground top sirloin dredged in moderately thick batter were fried until golden. A crisp, seasoned outer coating gave way easily to flavorful meat below. It's not a premade, frozen affair - there's no way. Chef Scott's signature chunky sausage gravy partially covered the meat, O'Brien potatoes and eggs. The steak is the star of this plentiful platter. It would easily feed two people, or one hung-over brother of mine. Cantaloupe and sliced strawberry made a great edible garnish - a welcome change from typical boring orange wedges or parsley sprig.

JASON: Nice jab, A-face. Eager serving staff awaited us at lunch as well. I think the new/old owners have mastered (or at least cornered) guest service. A salad of cider-poached pear atop spinach leaves left me wanting more in the flavor department. Cider poached? Pears had the watery consistency of those from a can. Pre-shredded mozzarella was a letdown. Sliced turkey breast appeared to be of the lunchmeat variety. Sundried cranberries, almonds and a sweet raspberry vinaigrette dressing saved the day.

JAKE: Bee in your salad bonnet, dear brother? I didn't think the salad was bad; it just wasn't as awesome as it sounded on the menu. Going the sandwich route for my lunch, a cold, lemony iced tea washed down sliced roasted beef dressed in caramelized onions and sharp blue cheese between toasted thin sourdough bread. Au jus wasn't necessary; the meaty sandwich was plenty moist on its own. About 8 ounces of potato salad balanced snap and crunch from celery and green and red onions with creamy, hardboiled egg and potato.

JASON: A third visit ignited my summer love of all things pressed between tortillas. A quesadilla bearing the expected grill marks was filled simply with sautéed tiger prawns, gooey mozzarella and black beans. Tangy sour cream drizzled zigzag fashion offset the sweetness of fruited salsa.

JAKE: Speaking of sweetness, vanilla ice cream melted luxuriously into a deep-dish, three-berry crisp dessert served à la mode. The firm freshness of plump, sliced strawberries, though just a garnish, contrasted beautifully with soft-baked berry blend. The crunch of oats was a crowning touch.

JASON: Desserts are made in-house regularly. Service was on point on all visits and prices reasonable. Though not mind-blowing, the food was a step above average. I'd definitely have that chicken-fried steak again.

Springlake Cafe

616 Regents Blvd., Fircrest
253.460.0919