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JBLM home to DoD’s only coffee roaster

Retired sergeant proud of his hand-crafted brew

Curtis Black, roaster for Battle Bean coffee on Joint Base Lewis-McChord, roasts a batch of beans last week. /Melanie Casey

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It's not hard to find a cup of coffee in the Pacific Northwest.  It's the home of Starbucks, after all, and there seems to be a drive through coffee stand on nearly every corner.

But the brew at Joint Base Lewis-McChord's Battle Bean is special - it's the only coffee in the world roasted on a U.S. military base.

Curtis Black, a retired sergeant first class who works for the Directorate of Family and Morale, Welfare and Recreation (DFMWR), is the only coffee roaster in the Department of Defense.

He takes pride in his small batch, hand-crafted Battle Bean brew.

The enterprise began with a push cart at Soldiers' Field House in 1991. It got so popular, an Especially Espresso shop opened adjacent to Waller Hall. Black, who "drinks gallons of coffee a day," was a frequent patron. (He likes it black, by the way, "no frou frou"). In 1998, shortly after he retired from the Army after 22 years, Black began work at the shop as a barista.

Originally the store used Starbucks coffee, then switched to Batdorf and Bronson from Olympia. As more Especially Espresso shops opened across post, JBLM's MWR business manager at the time, Marlyce Toop, thought it would save MWR money to have the beans roasted closer to home.

Black was the right man at the right time.

In 1999, with no formal training, Black started roasting Battle Bean coffee, initially with a small, 2-lb. machine. In 2001, he got a larger, 20-lb. capacity, hand-made Dietrich roaster, which he still uses today. The machine uses infrared technology to roast the beans, which allows for more even roasting and better flavor, he said.

Black is self-taught, relying on books, the Internet and networking with other roasters to learn the craft.

"It's more of an art than a science," he said.

Currently, the roasting operation takes place in a warehouse near the Arts and Crafts center. Later this year, however, it will move to the new Warrior Zone on JBLM North, where a new Battle Bean coffee shop will open as well.

The beans (which Black purchases from a broker in Puyallup) start off looking almost like dried peas or lentils. As they heat, they hiss and pop - almost like popcorn - and expand, releasing aroma and flavor. In about 20 minutes, when they are browned to Black's satisfaction, the beans are released from the roaster and allowed to cool. He doesn't use a timer and "goes by look and smell" of the beans to determine when they are ready, he said.

Black roasts the beans in batches of 20 pounds, and estimates he completes about 400 pounds per week. In addition to being the Battle Bean coffee roaster, Black also works on payroll, personnel and deliveries for all Battle Bean shops on post.

Battle Bean brand coffee is available exclusively on post at the JBLM Main PX, North Fort and Stryker Shoppettes, Stone Education Center and AFC Arena. Black will take special orders at (253) 964-2489. MWR hopes to sell the coffee online soon.

For more information, visit www.jblmmwr.com/bean.

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