RON SWARNER: A NIGHT AT PACIFIC GRILL >>>

In times of turmoil (economy, war, moving, holidays), I find myself searching for the calm center of solace in a safe haven. That haven can come in the innocent words of a child, the arms of a lover, or hug with nature. Haven and happiness can also be found in breaking bread with others. In the worst of times as well as the best, there are few places I’d rather break bread with the people I care most about than the Pacific Grill in downtown Tacoma.

The Tacoma restaurant raises the ceilings and the flash by several notches. It’s a big, jovial room with warm colors, towering modern lights, a sociable, occasionally boisterous bar area, and a menu to match (where else do you find meat candy (dates wrapped in bacon) on the menu as an appetizer?). To get your seafood on, start with tuna tartare â€" a grilled rare turna with crushed avocado, Walla Walla sweet onion, green peppercorn vinaigrette and crostini ($13.50). Continue your streak with lobster spaghetti â€" Maine lobster chunks tossed with spaghetti, shrimp, over-roasted tomatoes, zucchini, crushed red pepper, extra-virgin olive oil and basil ($28.95). After a brief intermission, there is a Julia Child brownie sundae, a tall glass filled to the top with homemade brownies, vanilla bean ice cream and a semi-sweet hot fudge sauce ($8.50), or a warm chocolate soufflé flourless bittersweet cake with divine espresso whipped cream ($8.50).

Last night after the downtown Tacoma holiday tree lightening I broke bread with family over the meal described above. It was the best of times.

[Pacific Grill,1502 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253.627.3535]

LINK: South Sound Restaurant Guide