BRINGING THE TACO TRUCK INDOORS >>>

During last month's Weekly Volcano Tournament of Tacos I ruined a pair of slacks, froze, and deposited beef tidbits between my car seat and console. I felt like a circus performer on many occasions - balancing, juggling and acting as if I wore a red wig and a red ball on my nose.

While very tasty, purchasing tacos from taco trucks definitely has its downsides.

Today I ate authentic taco truck style tacos in a seat, inside a warm building, with good music and a beer.

Masa has just added street vendor style tacos to its menu. Small, double white corn tortillas served open faced with seven varieties of smoked, grilled and braised meats and fish.

"I finally added the tacos I always wanted on the Masa menu," explains Masa (and Asado) managing partner John Xitco. We've experimented a while with our tacos - adding this and subtracting that - and I'm finally satisfied with our tacos. They look and tasted like the tacos you find in your typical, good, authentic taco truck. Simple, but good."

Well, not quite. The Masa signature touch still exists: they're beautiful, and certainly not simple.

Carne Asada, Smoked Chicken, Smoked Pork, Braised Rib, Prawn, Mahi Mahi, Salmon and Chorizo/Beef are listed on Masa's menu under the heading "Tacos - 3 for $4.95 or add (1) taco for $2. On the last menu, each taco was a dollar less.

"We no longer serve each taco with the sour cream décor," add Xitco. Our tacos are simpler now. However, we will certainly add the sour cream on request."

I tried all seven taco at lunch. Not a bad one in the bunch, although the smoked pork, with its great grill grease, cilantro, spicy avocado sauce, radish, catija and intensely smoky flavor, is my favorite. My next two picks would be the fish options. The salmon, with its sweet mango and nappa cabbage (a favorite of mine on the last menu), is refreshing. The tasty mahi mahi - seared or battered - is plunked onto the two tortillas along with nappa cabbage, pico de gallo, cilantro and crema. A squeeze of lime juice is de rigeur - as is an ice-cold beer. Xitco is most proud of the ancho braised rib option.

The tacos have company on the new menu. A couple new flatbreads - including a new build-your-own option - Oh MY! Mahi Mahi Wrap, Sloppy Jose (chorizo beef blend, queso tundido and barbecue sauce on a bun - Xitco's daughter Chloe's favorite), braised short rib enchilada and the Jefe de Jefe Burger (three-and-a-half pounder) are new faces on the menu.

The Jefe de Jefe Burrito is also a new addition. It weighs in at six pounds. Your choice of taco meat, four flour tortillas, bean puree, rice, crema, lettuce, pico de gallo, pepper jack cheese and guacamole is yours for $24.95.

On Cinco de Mayo, Masa will kick off its Jefe de Jefe Burrito challenge. The first person who purchases the behemoth the night of May 5, and eat it all in 15 minutes, will be crowned champion, receiving recognition on Masa's wall, and $500. Second and third place will also receive awards. And all participants will receive a T-shirt. If there's a tie before the 15 minutes expire, more burrito will be added. Basically, the first person to eat the most burrito wins. Live music, including Vicci Martinez, will be part of the night's celebration.

Those who can't attend Masa's burrito eating contest May 5 will still be able to achieve burrito gut-busting fame. Anytime after the event, when you push open Masa's massive door, announce you're up for the challenge, and throw down your $25, the staff will lift you onto the DJ platform and serve you as much burrito as you can eat in 15 minutes. If you beat the last competitor, you will be crowned the new champion.

I'll stick to the three smoked pork tacos thank you very much.

[Masa, 2811 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253.254.0560]