MASSIMO OPENS FOR BUSINESS >>>

Not since before Mama Stortini's closed up shop has puttanesca, salsiccia or saltimbocca been available in University Place. Only a few weeks past schedule, Massimo Italian Bar and Grill in University Place opened Sunday, July 17.

Graphic designer Michelle L. reports dinner Monday was hit and miss, "Cannelloni de Carnegie wasn't that great, but chicken Marsala and steamed clams were good," she says. She recommends custard cream with berries for dessert. She said of the service, "My server Shannon was great."

Wanting a firsthand taste, I headed to University Place Tuesday on a foodie field trip. An elderly woman on her way out as we arrived held her to-go box high and declared with full smile, "It's excellent and I have some to take home."

Inside I noticed the décor has come together nicely - pictures and mirrors hang on the walls, with vases and flowers here and there and padded benches facing a revamped fireplace. Instead of sparse, it's tastefully reserved and a bit rustic.

Lunch was shared with food blogger Emily Larberg Cook and security agent Dan Maze. Not midday drinkers, we merely skimmed the wine list. Many bottles are less than $40, more less than $30; a full page of by-the-glass wine has a $7 median price. Spooning garlicky olive oil spiked with vibrant red and green pepper and herb bits on thinly sliced white bread to prime our appetites, we went over the menu. Our server tells us the olive oil blend is made in-house and sold in a wine bottle for $19.

Pizza comes in seven-inch and 12-inch options; as appetizer we had a seven-inch Verduro ($5.95). Pie crust was light golden brown on one side and pale on the other. Very thin crust was only baked on the bottom; the top remained gummy and wet. Larberg guessed the wetness stemmed from large chunks of marinated artichoke hearts soaking the dough. I hate to knock plentiful toppings — halved olives, white onion, roasted red pepper pieces, garlic and mozzarella cheese were in full effect — but when they keep pizza crust from baking thoroughly, toppings should be cut back or a better baking method employed. On the side that was baked longer, the crust edge held its own. Larberg didn't think it was too dense, classifying it as crunchy on the outside and chewy inside. "If it was a breadstick it wouldn't need dip," she offers.

At operating partner Rich Johnson's suggestion I ordered Panino de Carne. A half sandwich with soup ($6.50), the sandwich was generous in size though most of that was bread. Difficult to get my mouth around, I finally smashed it down with my hand.  Adding marinara (or any sauce) would combat dryness. Well-done steak pieces could have used less cooking time and been sliced more thinly. The other ingredients of fresh basil, roasted red pepper and mozzarella cheese are always a winning combination.  Minestrone soup, though packed full of vegetables, was unremarkable.

Capellini Positano / Photo credit: Emily Larberg Cook

Linguine Sorrento ($9.95) arrived over-cooked and under-spiced. It was taken back with no fuss and quickly replaced with Capellini Positano ($8.95). Lemon overwhelmed the new dish - pasta was cooked al dente (which is tricky to achieve with such thin noodles), prawns were tail-on and not deveined. Maze's dish of Rigatoni con Salsiccia ($7.95) was the winner. The fragrant fennel scent in Italian sausage wafted from the bowl - fresh basil, sundried tomato and cream sauce covered al dente pasta. Maze's huge smile said it all: A+

While waiting for dessert and reveling in our surroundings, it was hard to imagine the restaurant was ever Captain Nemo's.

Tiramisu / Photo credit: Emily Larberg Cook

Tiramisu ($5.50) was cakey, layered and not doused in a liquor-infused sauce mimicking thin pudding. Those accustomed to tiramisu being saucy might consider this one dry. Not a fan of the chocolate syrup used to zigzag the dessert and plate, I'd guess it was Hersey's or similar by the flat one-dimensional taste.

We unanimously loved the panacotta ($6.50) - strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries became a berry doted slurry poured over custard cream.

Service was on point throughout the meal. Overall the food was good, but just that. The people running Massimo are not new to the restaurant industry; I'll wait to return and hope needed tweaks have been made.

Lunch and dinner portions match pricing. The menu is accessible and family-friendly. Now open for lunch and dinner, call for exact days and hours.

[Massimo Italian Bar & Grill, 4020 Bridgeport Way, University Place, 253.503.1902]