PAPA JONES BBQ IS ABOUT THE MEAT >>>

Papa Jones BBQ opened in late July on Tacoma's Hilltop. A modest dining room features stylish pendant lights, an order counter and a cheery atmosphere.

At Papa Jones it's all about fall-off-the-bone tender meat: ribs, chicken, hot links, brisket and rib tips. Anyone remotely into barbeque knows the importance of brown sugar. At Papa Jones brown sugar, garlic and other seasonings add a depth you can taste. Ranging from quite hot to a medium heat accessible to all, barbeque sauces will please most palettes. 

Destroyers of buns, sandwiches at Papa Jones are super meaty. The Slaw Dog is a tidy way to eat a hot link and coleslaw at once. Also worthy, a pile of saucy pulled pork on top of hand-cut fries on the menu warms this meat-lover's heart ($5-$8).

Side dishes like baked beans, macaroni salad, candied yams, red beans and rice are homemade (8- or 16-ounce, $2.75-$5). Fried okra was perfectly crisp in all the right ways and delightfully seasoned

Besides the pastry case full of sweet potato pie, pound cake, pecan pie and cheesecake, more baked goods are available with advance order.

Fish fry Fridays, gumbo and beef rib Saturdays and a Sunday dinner special that changes weekly (oxtail!) are little extras worth getting excited about.

[Papa Jones, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, noon to 9 p.m. Saturday, 1-6 p.m. Sunday, 1902 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253.572.2513]

LINK: More local barbecue